Iron above, steam in the middle, two black engines below
Start with the size, because it is smaller than you think. The Orsay version of La Gare Saint-Lazare is roughly 2 ft 6 in by 3 ft 5 in — a medium-small canvas, the size of a generous serving tray, not a wall. Stand in front of it at the Musée d’Orsay and it occupies about the spread of your arms. Everything that follows is happening inside that modest frame, in oil on canvas (paint mixed with linseed oil, the workhorse medium of European painting since the 1400s), signed by Monet at lower right, Claude Monet 77.
The picture is built in three layers, top to bottom, and the easiest way to read it is to take them in that order.
A cathedral ceiling made of iron
Up at the top is the roof. The whole upper third of the canvas is the great iron-and-glass train-shed roof— those structural ribs and girders that gave Chapter 1 its title. Monet has painted the roof from underneath, from inside the shed looking up, so the iron beams cut diagonally across the top of the picture in a darkened V, like the inside of a tent made of metal. Through the gaps between the girders you can see the pale dirty glass of the shed ceiling, brushed in cool blue-grays — the daylight outside leaking weakly through panes that are streaked with months of coal smoke. The roof is not a small architectural label up there in the corner. It dominates the upper half of the picture, dark and structural, the way a cathedral’s vaulted ceiling dominates the upper half of an altarpiece. The cathedral comparison is not an accident; it is the whole quiet argument of the chapter. This is Monet placing the iron-and-glass vault of modern Paris where the painters of his grandfather’s generation would have put a Gothic stone vault — top of the frame, dignifying the space below.
The painting’s real subject
In the middle, filling the heart of the picture, is the steam. And the steam — let this land plainly — is the painting’s real subject. A great soft cloud of it rises straight up the center of the canvas, billowing under the dark roof. Get close to the canvas and you can see Monet has built the cloud out of dabs of nearly white paint, pale yellow paint, washes of soft blue, and feathered edges of pale gray. The steam isn’t a sharp shape; it is shape dissolving. Its top edges feather up into the iron roof and almost merge with the darkness above. Its lower edges bleed into the locomotives below. Now back up two paces from the canvas and watch what happens. At arm’s length the separate dabs disappear — your eye stops reading “white stroke next to blue stroke next to gray stroke” and starts reading steam, a single moving body of vapor. This is the same broken-color trick Monet had been running on the Seine: lay the colors down side by side on the canvas without blending them on the palette, and let the viewer’s eyedo the blending at viewing distance. It is why the steam looks alive instead of like a flat painted cloud — the optical mixture at arm’s length keeps shimmering in a way mixed-on-the-palette paint never does. Monet has done with locomotive steam exactly what he had been doing with Channel fog and Seine mist for a decade — let it be the soft moving body of the picture, the atmosphere everything else is suspended in. That central plume is what makes a painting of a train station, in his hands, look like a painting of weather.
Two black silhouettes at the floor
Down at the bottom, on the platform floor, sit the engines. Two locomotives — two black, blocky, near-silhouette train engines — sit on parallel tracks pointing toward you. The closer engine is at the left, a darker, sharper black mass with the faint suggestion of its smokestack and boiler picked out. The farther engine is at center, slightly back from the first, fainter through the haze, its body half-erased by the rising steam it is producing. The two engines together anchor the bottom of the picture the way a heavy ground anchors the bottom of any landscape — they are the dark mass that lets the steam float. The rails run forward out of the engines toward the viewer in quick streaks of paint, drawing the eye in. And along the platform edge — quick dabs, no faces, no details — are a handful of small figures: porters and passengers and railway crew, brushstroke-sized people, the kind of marks that say “human scale here” without telling you anything else.
The city, the palette, and the cousins
A few more things to look for. Through the steam, on the right back of the picture, the city peeks through. The shed at Saint-Lazare opened out toward the Pont de l’Europe and the Haussmann-era apartment blocks of the rue de Rome; in the upper right, beyond the cloud, you can see those buildings as pale rectangular ghosts — the tall, pale, regular facades of bourgeois Paris, hazed almost to nothing through the steam. They tell you the shed is open at the far end and the city is right there, just outside, a few hundred feet of rail away. The palette is severely limited.Almost the entire picture is grays, blacks, blue-grays, and dirty whites, with a few warmer tan strokes for the platform surface and a few warm yellow notes in the steam where it catches whatever light is reaching it. There is no red, no green, no obvious warm color. This is a deliberately restricted palette — a working port at midday-but-overcast, in a roofed building, lit through grimy glass — and Monet has trusted the palette. He hasn’t smuggled in pretty color the scene didn’t have.
(One genuinely useful comparison, before we leave the canvas. There are eleven other paintings in this series, and a few of them are easy to confuse with the Orsay one. The version at the Art Institute of Chicago is called Arrival of the Normandy Train, Gare Saint-Lazare — it looks down the tracks at an engine arriving head-on from outside, a wholly different angle. The version at the National Gallery in London shows a different view of the yards. The Marmottan in Paris has another. Of the twelve, the Orsay version is the most interior — the most a portrait of the room, the iron-and-glass shed itself, with the engines secondary to the architecture and the steam.)
Take the three layers together and the picture becomes legible as an argument. Iron-and-glass above; steam dissolving in the middle; black machinery at the base; the bourgeois city showing softly through the haze on the right. It is a vertical section through what 1877 actually was — engineering at the top, the messy working middle, industry at the floor, the modern city behind the smoke. Painted at the size of a serving tray. In about four months. With permission.